Many people will experience the pitfalls of buying unrestored vintage Tools at some point which can be an expensive mistake most will not forget, so in this article I thought it might be worth going over a few things.
I work on old vintage tools most days, restoring them to a standard of sharpness, precision, and condition. I’m faced with various challenges that often require age-compatible spare parts caused by hidden defects, so I thought it might be worth writing a blog about the pitfalls of buying unrestored vintage tools.
All too often sellers of unrestored tools are oblivious to the hidden defects that may lurk under the first inspection, however any dealer worth their salt can after some time should be able to recognise the more obvious problems, some will lack a critical eye for detail, whilst some are quite happy to deceive. Ignorance is a problem with general public sellers with zero experience, especially in places like eBay.
Now, if I can also sometimes buy unrestored tools with hidden issues, bearing in mind my experience in finding faults, it’s highly likely that you will also come across this problem.
Anyway, I will explain some pitfalls many buyers of old tools don’t consider that can either cause a lot of work to eradicate or can affect a tool’s viability.
Why is pitting such a problem with edge tools?
You will never have an edge tool that holds a good edge if pitting is present on the face of the cutting edge, hence why we strive to create that smooth flat face surface on all vintage tools we sell. This eradication of any pitting from the surface, regardless of how minor it may seem to the eye is essential to creating a keen durable edge and why it is important to store tools in a dry place or protect them with moisture repellants during periods of inactivity. Flat Chisels often have uneven faces that will require flattening, Gouge’s inner or outer faces likewise need to be clear of pitting if you want these tools that hold their edge.
A common problem most woodworkers never consider regarding bench planes for example is the chipbreaker and iron connection where two steel surfaces touch together. Moisture is drawn between the two parts caused by capillary action, this is why so many used planes have deep pitting close to the cutting edge and considerable effort is needed to correct this issue.
Unforeseen issues with old vintage saws.
You can never tell what you have until any vintage saw has been sharpened and set. Over time steel can crystalise, hardening the saw plate, which makes it difficult to file and will cause a tooth or teeth to snap when setting them. Crystallisation of steel is a natural hardening process, and why many old saws retain their sharpness longer than new spring steel saws. This seems to be more prominent in saws due to the thickness of the steel plate and the fact you have to bend/set the teeth. (My Theory: This is possibly why people prefer old steel in old vintage tools over new ones.) It is true that because of the maturing nature of steel in old saws, they should always be set with caution. It is a gamble we all have to take when buying old unrestored saws, hence why I have always stressed the importance of buying saws that have been sharpened and set.
Hidden problems with vintage woodworking planes.
Hairline cracks in plane’s bodies sometimes become apparent during restoration, watch out for splashes of paint used to hide this defect, rust also hides them. Incorrect parts like screws, brass depth adjustment wheels, etc with incompatible threads that have been forced to comply because they are from different makers but also periods of manufacture. There are occasions where seized parts can be an unexpected problem whereby their removal causes parts to sheer off or threads to become damaged if the wrong methods are adopted in their removal. Always remember a good plane depends on a unison of compatible parts working towards a certain goal.
Note: All YouTube video restoration videos will use planes that have all the correct components to be able to complete the video. Isn’t it a coincidence that we don’t seem to have videos where restoration fails and why do these never see the light of day? I can attest some planes can be an absolute nightmare, even with a good selection of spare parts that have come from those planes that didn’t make it to our website.
Spare Parts: We do not sell spare parts because they are an essential part of our business that has taken many years to build up but they can be bought on eBay if you are in a desperate hurry. Spare-used Irons are usually available online but will always require work to fettle them in, try and avoid the Irons with pitted faces because they can be time-consuming to prepare them for action.
What other vintage tools have issues?
Every tool can have obvious issues but it is important to first find tools that are complete because finding spare parts can be expensive or elusive. Multi-part planes would be a good example of this but if you are unfamiliar with a particular tool look for empty screw holes that are probably there to hold a guide or depth stop etc.
Loose handles make tools feel unstable in the hand and will require either rehandling or effective treatment to stabilise them so they again properly work as one and as intended.
I will always look at how a tool has been sharpened and treated by the previous owner to assess its value. I will consider whether the user has maintained it as ready for use and how well things have been sharpened for example to get a feel for their maintenance ability. Poor treatment of a particular tool means the previous owner held little value for it.
Remember time is money, the more time a tool takes to rectify for its particular use will determine the value you will place upon it, so always consider what your time is worth.
My final tip: I have bought many thousands of tools from various places and can say I’ve seen too many tools bought with good intentions by users of tools with the intention of restoring them for use but they never got around to it. Everyone loves a bargain but when a tool sits there in your workshop not fit for purpose and unused, it holds no real value!
Many of our customers recognise our service eradicates the need for all these issues, knowing that I do indeed have the facilities, equipment, parts, and knowledge to eliminate issues most buyers of old tools face. I would always recommend the most important aspect to focus on is sharpening and retaining important areas from being affected by rust and focusing on what the tools can help you to achieve.
Your best and most accurate tools should be the ones you use the most.
